SIMPLE TIME-DISTORTION DETECTOR

Several inventions in the realm of alternative science have claimed to distort local space-time, affecting either the speed of light or the flow of time. Detecting these anomalies is nontrivial, but there are a few proposed methods. Optical distortions could be observed through the use of Schlieren or Foucault mirror test systems, while deflections in a laser beam can be identified using an "optical lever." However, these methods may not be sensitive enough to capture extremely subtle effects.

Here’s an alternative yet sensitive approach: Construct two crystal oscillators. Utilize one as a reference and the other as a probe. Beat their outputs together and monitor the difference frequency, either through instrumentation or even by ear. Place the reference oscillator at a significant distance and use the probe to examine the area around a device suspected to produce time anomalies. Any local changes in time would manifest as fluctuations in the beat frequency.

A rudimentary version of this apparatus using a CD4049 CMOS inverter and 32KHz digital watch crystals. I discovered that power supply coupling caused phase-locking between the oscillators, an issue mitigated by using independent power supplies and buffer stages.

Frequency synchronization can be achieved by altering the power supply voltage or adjusting the bias point of the CMOS inverter's input pin. Note that these crystals are temperature-sensitive, so temperature stabilization measures such as "crystal ovens" are advisable for a robust setup.

Subsequent experiments with 30MHz 5-volt oscillators revealed more stable behavior, although temperature compensation was still needed. Multiple display methods were explored, ranging from oscilloscopic visualizations to direct frequency measurements using commercial frequency counters.

Let's delve into the construction details.

Crystal Oscillators

Use a CD4049 CMOS inverter IC for each oscillator. This chip will form the heart of your oscillator.
Connect a 32KHz digital watch crystal between the input and output pins of one of the inverters in the CD4049. This forms a simple oscillator circuit.
Use a capacitor (say, 22pF) on either side of the crystal to ground to improve the stability.
Power the IC using an LM78L05 voltage regulator to give a stable 5V power supply. Use separate regulators for each oscillator to minimize interference.

Buffering and Isolation

To eliminate phase-lock between the oscillators, use a buffering stage, perhaps another inverter from the CD4049, connected to the output of the oscillator.
Use separate power supplies for each oscillator to minimize coupling. Isolate the ground lines as much as possible.

Frequency Synchronization

To fine-tune the oscillators, you can use LM317 adjustable regulators. Connect them to the VCC pin of the CD4049 and adjust the voltage to slightly alter the frequency.

Temperature Compensation

House each oscillator circuit, including the CD4049 IC and the crystal, inside a small metal can.
Add a PTC thermistor within each can. The thermistor will act as a rudimentary "oven," stabilizing the temperature.

Output Analysis

You can use a simple mixer circuit to combine the outputs and listen to the difference or "beat" frequency.
Alternatively, use an oscilloscope to visually monitor the oscillators. Trigger the oscilloscope with one oscillator and display the output of the other.

Optional Enhancements

For even better results, you may opt for 30MHz 5-volt oscillators that come in shielded cans. These oscillators usually include buffering and some power supply regulation internally.
As we tread these less-traveled paths of scientific exploration, let's not forget the minutiae. They may very well hold the key to unlocking the secrets we seek.

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SCALAR ELECTROSTATIC GRADIOMETER

   

PARTS:

• 2 - TL082 dual JFET op amp (Tex. Inst)
  
• 1 - .001uF 50V ceramic disk capacitor
  
• 5 - .01uF 50V ceramic disk capacitor
  
• 3 - 100pF 50V ceramic disk capacitor
  
• 2 - 10uF 25V electrolytic capacitor
  
• 1 - 2M ohm potentiometer (lin. taper)
  
• 2 - 1M ohm potentiometer (aud. taper)
  
• 1 - Diode 1N914, 1N4148, or similar
  
• 1 - 100M ohm resistor (or five 22M in series)
  
• 2 - 120uH RF choke coil
  
• 1 - Ferrite toroid (T1, see text)
  
• Resistors, 1/8W 5%
  • 2 - 1M
    
  • 2 - 47K
    
  • 2 - 10K
    
  • 4 - 6.2K
    
  • 1 - 3.0K
    
  • 1 - 1.5K
    
• 1 - 5mA panel meter
  
• 1 - 5mA panel meter, center zero (+-2.5mA meter.)
  
• 1 - DPST power switch
  
• 2 - Telescoping radio antenna
  
• 3 - Knobs for pots
  
• 1 - Silica gel dessicant bag (baked to dry it)
  
• 1 - proto circ. board
  
• 1 - Metal enclosure
  

Quote:WARNING: IC1 IS EASILY DESTROYED BY 'STATIC'This instrument can easily be wrecked by electrostatic voltages. If you build up static body potenitals on a dry day, then "zap" either of the antennas, you'll kill IC1. To greatly reduce this possibility, build the whole device into a metal case. That way the body of the person holding the instrument will not be able to deliver huge voltages to the antennas. Just avoid bumping the antennas against large metal objects and other people. And buy some extra op-amp chips so you have replacements for IC1 when it gets zapped. Bob Shannon's Gradiometer differs from this one-transistor FET detector in that it measures the strength of LOCAL FIELD DIRECTION of environmental voltage, rather than directly measuring the environmental voltages (relative to ground.) One large benefit is that the Gradiometer should mostly ignore the charge of the human being holding the device. For example, the simple charge detector goes crazy if you walk across a carpet with rubber-soled shoes. The gradiometer instead measures the difference in the voltage picked up by the two antennae, and unless the input is overloaded, this difference would not change enormously as you touch your shoes to the carpet.CENTER-READING METERIf you can't find a +- meter, some kinds of 5mA meters can be modified to move the needle to the center position. If the usual adjusting screw won't go far enough, then remove the plastic cover plate and carefully turn the adjustment by hand. Then simply make a paper meter scale label and glue it in place.TL082 OP AMP, VERSUS TL072While it is always a bad idea to alter a "weird science" device, you might wish to try using TL072 op amps instead of the one used above. TL072 were sold in later years, and create less circuit noise than TL082. Try both, and if TL072 does not improve things, stick with the original parts list.MIGHT DRIFT AND LOSE GAIN ON HUMID DAYSNote that the whole circuit around pins 2 and 3 of IC1 is dealing with thousand-megohm resistances. For this reason, surface leakage of all components becomes significant, and the gain may go way down during high humidity. Provide an airtight enclosure for the instrument so the bag of silica gel dessicant won't fill up with water and stop working.If you make a printed circuit board for the gradiometer, it might be best to NOT make any traces for the conductors attached to pins 2 and 3 of IC1, or the conductors attached to the two antennas. Instead, solder the terminals of these components directly to each other, so the wires are hanging in space and aren't touching the moist surface of the PCB. This includes the terminals of RFC1, T1, and one lead each of C3, C4, C5, C6, C7, and R2. You might even want to bend pins 2 and 3 of IC1 up into the air, and solder wires directly to them, rather than letting them touch the conductive plastic of a proto board or an IC socket. It might even be wise to paint the plastic case of IC1 with red GLPT high-voltage paint (corona dope), to limit the surface leakage across the IC1 plastic package, ESPECIALLY any surface leakage between the -9v on pin 4 and the adjacent pin 3. If humidity is high and meter M1 seems to constantly drift negative, it probably is caused by surface leakage between pin 4 and 3 of IC1.T1 BIFILAR CHOKET1 and the four surrounding capacitors appear to form a "common mode" filter which rejects high frequency (such as radio signals and the continuing electrical noise from nearby power lines caused by light dimmers and motor brush sparks.) Any small toroid core should work, although a larger core would give larger inductance and better filtering."GIMMICK" TWISTED PAIRThe "gimmick" probably functions as a resistor. Note that the first section of IC-1 is wired as a conventional op-amp differential amplifier, but it lacks a feedback resistor. If we wanted to make it be a high-gain DC amp, we'd need a 10,000 megohm resistor across pins 1 and 2, in order to form a 100x divider network with the 100 megohm resistor R2. The tiny conductance of the plastic of the twisted-pair 'gimmick' (as well as the conductance of surface leakage across that plastic) probably forms an ultra-high-value resistor. The capacitance of the 'gimmick' probably forms a capacitive divider with C7, which prevents overload by signals at frequencies too high for the meter needle to respond.Note that there is no resistor anywhere connected to pin 3 of IC1. Pin 3 is electrically "floating," except for the ultra-high resistance of capaictors C3, C4, and C5. These capacitors probably provide an invisible voltage divider (just assume they act as resistors with values much higher than 1000 megohms.) If these capacitors were perfect insulators, the output of the op amp would drift all over the place and would not respond to the R1 "bias" control. If your meter DOES drift uncontrollably, try swapping out C3 with other types of .001uF capacitor until you find one with the right kind of internal leakage. Or, if you can locate a 10,000Megohm resistor, wire it across C3.  

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Date: Mon, 13 Aug 2001 10:19:51 -0700 (PDT)From: William Beaty <>To: Freenrg-L <freenrg-l@eskimo.com>Subject: Re: [FG]: Gradiometer againC. Ford mentioned one problem with battery power: meter drift is caused by the way the R1 "bias" pot is connected. Since the gain of the electrostatic section is probably over 100x, then whenever the voltage of the 9v batteries drift, the meter needle will wander rapidly. To stop this, rather than feeding +-9v to the legs of R1, we should feed them regulated power. To make a simple 6.2v voltage regulator, connect a 6.2v zener across the load being regulated, then put a resistor in series with the incoming supply. On the above schematic, we'd connect a 100K resistor in series with each leg of pot R1, then use two 6.2v zener diodes (number 1N4735A), connecting each zener to ground and to one leg of R1, with diode polarity chosen for correct operation.LOL! Brainstorm!If we aren't dead certain about how this device really works, maybe we shouldn't change it. What if the most interesting readings are ACTUALLY USING THE 9V BATTERIES AS AN ANTENNA?!! If some "weird physics" signals are slightly altering the output voltage of the 9v batteries, then this device is actually a "differential detector" where simultaneous changes of battery voltages are ignored, but if one battery voltage goes up while the other goes down, the meter needle strongly responds. Don't forget, the voltage of a battery comes right from quantum mechanics; right from the microscopic layer of aligned electrolyte molecules which coats the battery electrodes. In that case, we could get rid of the antennas, and instead improve the sensitivity by putting each 9v battery on the end of a long rod!If anyone here has already built this device, try adding zeners to make regulated +-6volts, then add a DPDT switch that lets you connect R1 either directly to the batteries, or to regulated 6V. Then, when using the device, see if the voltage regulation makes it behave better. Or see if the voltage regulation REMOVES the interesting signals.

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